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in reading my CD175 website, it is here www.microverse.on.ca/cd175
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Honda CD175 Q&A
Comments are open for all Internet users. If you are interested
in reading my CD175 website, it is here www.microverse.on.ca/cd175
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I recently picked up a 1968 (i've figured that much out!) cd175. It doesn't currently have a headlight bulb, and was wondering if anyone knows a resrouce for these, or what other bikes might have shared the same bulb. wikipedia is confusing, it seems to indicate it may use a stronger bulb than the 67's, but not be same as what was used on the vertical's of 69+. thanks!
ReplyDeletePARTS FICHE
ReplyDeleteYou could try the Western Hills Honda website for a parts fiche for starters. It looks like the '68 bulb is a two-part item with a separate flange, the canadian K3 model has the bulb and flange as one part, and the American K3 CD175 has a sealed beam unit.
That's my bike !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteHi, I have the exact UK bike (K5) model pictured in the gallery (LGT 948P). I rescued it from the grave and it's now my daily ride. Any chance of some history from the photo
Thanks
Stephen
I have had that picture up for at least 8 years, I took it off the internet, and I have never heard from anyone about it. That's all I can tell you.
ReplyDeletehi was jus wonderin what the value of one of thease bikes wouldd be, thinking of selling mine is in great nic and is not being ridden. breaks my heart seein it in my shed not being put to good use...
ReplyDeleteRobert, on your other page you've got a picture of the carb ( http://www.microverse.on.ca/cd175/fuelfilter.JPG ) and there is a small black hose running off the bottom of it. Does this connect to anything, or just bleed off excess pressure or fuel? I've got a CD175, with no hose there, that streams gas from that port on the bottom of the carb.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering if that hose goes anywhere, if it would be ok to plug the hole, or find out what is causing it to leak gas there?
About the hose: That line is an air pressure relief vent from the float chamber. If fuel is flowing out it's probably a dirty or stuck or worn out float needle valve. And it might also be a good idea to put about 10 inches of hose on that, to route the open end to a calm area without wind buffeting, as wind at high speed can change the float bowl level.
ReplyDeleteAbout the price: $500 to $1500 for a decent running bike with a safety inspection, in Ontario Canada, in Canadian dollars would be fair. But frankly it really depends on the buyer and seller, especially if the buyer is really interested. And of course you could always determine the price by auction on eBay.
i have a 1970 cd175K3 and the air breather cover is broken. cant find another one but i can find 1970 CA175's and a host of others. i was wondering if they are interchangable. if the CA175 will fit or if it can be fitted this knowledge would be invaluble.
ReplyDeletecheers
buckseitan@gmail.com
The air breather, or air filter box, had a change between 1970 and 1971, I think. The difference is obvious when you look - in 1970, the air intake hole was in the metal part of the replacement paper element filter, in 1971, the hole was in the plastic box, so the new filters did not have the hole any more.
ReplyDeleteNone of the twin carburetor models air boxes or filters will fit any of the single carburetor models. But the CD175 and CA175 are both one carburetor, so all you have to worry about is the location of the intake hole.
Some owners got the wrong filter, and ended up with no external air hole, so the bike would not work until they cut a new hole in the plastic box.
If your air box is broken, you could either fix it with duct tape or aluminum tape, or get a new air box, but be aware of the external hole location.
Hi I have a 72 CD175 Canadian model and I want a luggauge rack there are alot available from CB models and XLs but nothing from a CD can you tell me what other models racks and accessories can fit my bike.
ReplyDeleteMy personal opinion on most aftermarket luggage racks, is that although they say they are made for a certain bike, they don't fit all that well, and require some thinking and drilling, bending, and improvising to make it work. The exception would be if there was an accessory rack from Honda for this bike.
ReplyDeleteMy solution would be to check the used racks at the local salvage yard, then do some backyard engineering to make it fit.
I really like the combined luggage rack/buddy seat on my CD175 with the solo seat, but they are hard to find. But there are other ways to carry stuff. Saddlebags, tank bags, backpacks.
I'd like to change my CD175 into a solo seat and put on some luggage rack to, do you know where to buy the solo seat for CD175 and the luggage rack? or maybe you have it and want to sell it? thanks.
DeleteRegards,
Budiyanto
Surabaya, East Java-Indonesia
email: budiyanto9@gmail.com
I don't know where to buy them, but this is some advice in case you ever find another bike to exchange with. The two fender bolts also need to be exchanged and are hard to find if you don't have them. The fender bolts for the luggage rack have a threaded hole to mount the luggage rack on.
Deletemaybe you have the original single seat, and can use is as an example to reproduce, at least the seat base...
DeleteThe seat base is a stamped steel part with complex bends, and it is manufactured with an extremely expensive metal stamping machine. The best I could do would be to cut out a flat sheet of metal (or plywood) and attach brackets to the bottom and a foam pad to the top. But a flat piece would sit very high on the motorcycle, and would not look right.
DeleteIt would be easier for me to look for a motorcycle salvage place and try to find an old Honda 175 with a solo seat and luggage rack. Or a seat that looks similar, and try to make the brackets myself.
Another alternative would be to attach a foam pad directly to the frame of the CD175.
I am trying to start a CD 175 1969 model. It hasn't run for quite a few years. When it was running, it ran quite well. At the moment, it doesn't have a battery. Does it need a battery to kick start or clutch start?
ReplyDeleteI have a 1969 CD 175 and yes you have to have a battery to start it. Not only that it must be charged to start well, like most old honda's.
DeleteNorm, Toronto, Ontario
I don't actually know, because I never tried it myself. But I was told by the previous owner that he had done it.
ReplyDeleteRobert, if I may help you out on that question:
ReplyDeleteA battery is used to help maintain the running current of a motorcycle. The bike in question may require the constant use of certain electrical parts, such as a headlight, rear running light, etc.
It is possible to kick over and start a bike without a battery, however it's very hard on the bike's stator. The bike will want to draw more current that what is available, causing a strain on the electrical system. For the cost of a battery, it may be worth buying one and then trying to start the bike.
That's what I was kind of thinking, so I always made sure a battery was in there. As I recall, the Yamaha DS7 needed a battery because the alternator's magnets were activated by battery current.
ReplyDeleteBy the way, again about the DS7, I hope I didn't steer you wrong about the tire size I used. It's been a long time since the Yamaha DS7 and I parted company, and it seems I had even forgotten what the original tire size was. What I remember for sure is that I fitted a larger tire than stock, but I have no way to double check the actual tire I put on it.
Hi Robert,
ReplyDeleteMy Name's Ken and I'm a Bikeaholic...
I emailed you about CD175s maybe 5 years ago when I lived in NS... and have periodically dropped by yout CD175 site for inspiration... I am living in the UK now and glad to see your CD175 site is still going strong...
Anyway, I have got 3 mid-70s CD175's in various condition, (plus 10 other bikes) all needing some work. I have always yearned for a sidecar - aside from the Phillipino sidecar taxi on your other site, have you ever come across a "western" sidecar mounted to a CD175? I realize there would not be much power, but beck in the 50s and 60s, they used to fit sidecars to Lambretta and Vespa scooters...
I thought it would be fun to fit a sidecar to one of my CD175s...
Any thoughts, comments, ideas, advice?...
Regards, Ken
Unfortunately, I lost all my emails for the website about three years ago in a computer crash, or I could find your earlier introduction.
ReplyDeleteI think there are a lot more sidecars in the UK than Canada. Anyway, I have no personal experience with sidecars other than one ride many years ago, and none of the readers who emailed me had any sidecars mounted on
the 175 other than the one you mentioned.
If you do find one, I'd like to see a picture.
Mystery Canadian CD 175 T4 owner. I now have two 1974 T4's. Still researching the bike and have found it interesting that according to Honda in Canada that the bike does not exist and was never imported. Contacted Honda U.S. of A. in California and again find that there was not a 1974 CD 175 T4 with a VIN or engine serial number starting with 3 imported and or exported from U.S. of A. to Canada. However, there are 1968/69 CA 175's with serial numbers that are listed with VIN's CD 175 3.... and CD 174E 3... for engine.
ReplyDeleteBeing that I purchased one of the bikes - new - from a Honda dealership in 74, I find it interesting that Honda Canada maintains the model CD 175 T4 never existed and suggested that I was trying portray a fraud for financial gain. If anyone can help please drop me a line at integratedair@aol.com Attn: Bill Denniston
Hello Bill-
DeleteI am now apparently an owner of 1974 CD175 "T4" model. Have you learned anything more about this bike?
Roger.
howdy robert from australia......I am not sure now I stumbled on your
ReplyDeletewebsite but I did......it was while I was searching the internet for
anthing to do with vulcan 900's........my partner late last year
bought me one for my 60th birthday.......I have enjoyed reading your
articles especially the vulcan 900 story.....canada is a place I would
love to travel to(maybe one day before its too late) and you certainly
make it sound very appealing........keep up the good work I will be
following your writings with great interest........best
wishes......david
hi robert i just picked up a 1974 cd 175 i love it ,it rides nice but have the odd problem with the gears sometimes in 4th it goes to netural aor when i gear down its like i dont have the clutch in enough any ideas .how much oil does the bike take .i can ask a million ? but will start with this one .....Ric (canada)
ReplyDeleteYou say "When I gear down it's like I don't have the clutch in enough", it seems like you already have the idea that the clutch is not in enough. What actually is happening, like any noises, and change of speed of the engine or the bike, any jerkiness, what the clutch lever feels like and the gear lever feels like, how often this happens, and does it happen in every gear?
ReplyDeleteThe books says 1.5 litres, and there is also a dipstick under the filler cap, which is more accurate because you never really know how much oil you drained.
Hey...i have a 73 CD175 twin, and i need the specs for the battery...it's the final piece of the restoration...please let me know...
ReplyDeleteon page http://www.microverse.on.ca/cd175/cd175_red.htm, on September 10, 2001, I buy a new battery for Red. Both my CD175s take the same battery.
ReplyDeleteUniversal battery reference number is 6N12A-2D. It's 6 volt.
Hey...got a CD 175, and just replaced a shorted stater, and now my starter is turning but the spark is not gettin through...any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteIf this is electrical troubleshooting, the standard method is to go back to the last place you had electricity that is easy to check. In this case, it's the points. See if there is electricity at the points (both sides).
ReplyDeleteOther questions: Are the plugs good? How were they tested for no spark?
I had one of the first cd175a s here in the u.k. It cost a mere £175 back in 1967,my favourite bike of all,incredable acceleration for such a small engine,probably because it was undergeared,or the smaller than average wheels,16"
ReplyDeleteI have just bought a honda cd175 and it takes a long time to start, and when started I have to keep the revs up as it will not idle --- ant ideas ??
ReplyDeleteFor a Honda CD175 that will not idle and is hard to start, make sure the idle jet is clean.
ReplyDeleteHey sweet site,
ReplyDeleteI am totally new to this whole motorcycle thing, a my nd recently purchesed a " honda cb200" which upon further inspection I found it to be a 1970 cd175. I was looking to do the whole cafe racer thing to it. Anywho I did not know these bikes where only 6 volt. So now I'm stuck with a bunch of stuff that's all 12v stuff like a new tail light, led turn signals, and a new headlight . Is there anyway I can run this stuff at all? Or would I have to convert the bike to 12v, if so is it difficult?
-Adrian
Itsmeadreen@gmail.com
I have not changed my CD175 to 12 volt, partly because I have been able to keep it running as a 6v, partly because I want it original. But if you really want to, you have to change all light bulbs including instrument bulbs, the rotor/stator, the voltage regulator, the horn, the battery and the flasher relay. I don't know about the starter motor, maybe it could handle 12v maybe not. All these parts are probably available from the same year CB175, which is 12v.
ReplyDeleteThe above items I am 99% sure need changing. But some things like the coil and the starter motor, I don't know for sure if they can handle 12 volts. And I don't know what size main fuse you would need. But the switchgear, the wiring harness, and the points, probably would work fine with either 12 volt or 6v.
Reminder: this is just what I remember, not a complete list, I have not done the 12v conversion, and I am not a professional mechanic. I decided for myself the conversion would not be worth doing, it would take more time and money than keeping it 6v, and I didn't think it would add any value to the bike either.
I have a rare cd 175 i think 67 model the one with its engine block tilt to 30,well I have some questions concerning where to buy its carb repair kit.Can u guys tell me where or what site to go to look for this part thanks
ReplyDeleteI have never needed to buy a carburetor repair kit yet, but if I needed one, I would try this place first. They also happen to be located in the the city where I live, but I know they ship to the USA, and they have a lot of items on eBay.
ReplyDeleteSirius Consolidated Inc.
Hello. My CD175 is a 1978 model. It's been standing idle for 6 months, before then I could kick start it and it would turn over idling well. However now it won't despite what I "think" is a full charge (lights come on fine, charger says it's done its job, however I'm not getting indicators flashing consistently). However, I can't get it to kick start. I can roll it down a hill close to home to try and bump start it but no joy. I'm thinkig of buying a new battery, but first want to know if there's anything else obvious I've missed? All light work fine. Thanks. Mike
ReplyDeleteSitting for 6 months, what might happen is the gas in the float bowl evaporates, and the float valve also sticks, not allowing gas to get in from the tank. Remove and drain the float bowl, and tap the float valve to see if it's sticking or not, then reassemble and try again. That's the obvious thing, but there are many other less obvious possibilities.
ReplyDeleteOK, will give that a try this weekend. Thanks, Mike
ReplyDeleteI just pick up a 68 CD175 It is rough, but all original. It is a pretty low 1968 serial number with many parts stamped 67' Wikipedia says 68' stated with 17136. Does anyone know how many were produced in 68?
ReplyDeletehow do you change the ignition coil in a cd 175 69
ReplyDeleteFor JSClark, to change the coil you would need to remove the gas tank, then find the coil at the end of the spark plug wires. There is only one coil on this bike and it serves both cylinders. The spark plug wires are molded into the coil, and must be replaced with the coil, since they are considered to be part of the coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the coil, unbolt the coil. Then put the new coil in, connecting the wires that you just disconnected.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteIn my 68 cd175 it starts and runs fine but as soon as i put it in gear it jumps forward and stalls. the clutch wont activate at all. iv tried adjusting the cluch down on the motor and at the lever but with no good results. any ideas??
I guess clutch plates could be stuck together if they have not been used for several decades. You didn't mention whether the bike had been sitting for a long time.
ReplyDeleteSecond idea, maybe the mechanism down on the engine cover is either broken or still misadjusted. I know you said you adjusted it, but you didn't say anything to indicate how you knew how to do this. One clue would be if the clutch pull at the handlebar feels wrong (low back pressure).
I can't tell from your comment how new or experienced you are to motorcycle repair. I have received questions in the past from a range of backgrounds, from a professional mechanic, who has done several restorations of old Honda's - to - young person in school who has never operated any motorcycle before (including this one) and has nobody to help them.
Hi again, I mailed on December 14th about my bike not starting and I thought it may have been the battery. Your advice on looking at the carb lead me to check the fuel supply. Working back from the carb (which was pretty clean) I checked the fuel line from the fuel switch which again was clean, but soon discovered the fuel switch wasn't feeding fuel at all. I suspected a build up of crud in the tank itself, so proceeded to remove the tank. The fuel pipe joining the left and right hand sides of the tank was fused to the tank nipples so I had to cut the line and drain (I couldn't remove the fuel switch as the holding screw would not budge, and it was difficult to get at too). Tank off, I was able to clear out the crud by turning it upside down, also had a better look inside the fuel switch, took it apart and cleaned out a lot of crud from the rubber section. In retrospect I shoud have done this first before taking the tank off, it may have solved the problem and saved me cutting the fuel line. However the fuel line was quite perished so would have had to do this anyway at some point.
ReplyDeleteQuestion - do you know the proper name of the fuel pipe I had to cut please, I'm going to need to order that.
Many thanks
Mike
My bike does not have that line, and if it did I would block it off so that I could remove the fuel tank more easily.
ReplyDeleteIt does not have a name in the parts catalogue (looking at my 1972 CL450 manual), it is called "fuel tube" and only the length and diameter are specified.
The purpose of this line is to allow you to drain the last little bit of fuel from the other side of the tank while driving, before you run out of fuel. But without that line, you run out of fuel, then get off the bike, tilt it to the side to let the trapped fuel run from one side to the other of the tank, then get on and go until it is all really gone, then start pushing. I consider that to be a good feature, actually.
Now if you really want that line, and sooner or later you are going to need some fuel lines or other hoses, don't bother ordering. Fuel lines come in standard diameters that you can get at any auto parts retail outlet. Take the old line to make sure the inside diameter is the same. Buy extra and cut it to the length you need.
Hello again
ReplyDeleteAn update on my fuel flow issues. After cleaning out the petcock and fitting a new fuel line at the base of the tank, I remounted the tank and filled up with a little fuel. The petcock leaks, so I'm assuming the crud I cleared out was inhibiting both the fuel flow AND the leak. I think the o-ring between the final screw on plate (the one with the off/on/res markings) and the actual lever may be u/s? The rubber gasket looks ok, but should there be any more washers in the housing after the gasket, or does it simply firm up against the aforementioned plate? Wondering if the rubber gasket has decayed too much and needs replacng? Don't seem to be able to find a source for one, any ideas?
Sorry for not knowing the correct terms yet, still learning.
Thanks
Mike
Sorry, I should have added, the leak is coming from out of the petcock itself, not the seal with the tank, it's coming through the lever area, as though the rubber gasket is not doing its or the metal o-ring isn't, suggesting both may need replacing, or there is something (link an additional washer?) missing?
ReplyDeleteWestern Hills CB175
ReplyDeleteeBay CD175 Gas Tap
Let me start with Western Hills Honda, which has an online parts diagram and also sells parts. But be aware I have never used them. I found a diagram close to the part you want, looks like the only difference is an extra pipe out for the extra carburetor on the CB175. The exploded diagram should help you know if you do have all the parts to the tap.
Ebay has several gas taps for the CD175 currently for sale, from Thailand. To find the ones currently for sale, go to eBay and type CD175 gas tap (or something like that).
But I would also look for a local motorcycle scrap yard to look for a replacement tap.
I would try to replace the o-ring with a generic o-ring. O-rings are available in lots of sizes and diameters at auto parts stores.
Working with gas is messy but you should eventually be able to repair it or at least replace it with a new one.
Hi
ReplyDeleteI have a 73 CD175 and installed a new throttle cable when starting it now revs very high. Any thoughts on what I have done wrong on installing the cable. Also could you advise the amount of initial screw turn back adjustment for the air and throttle from a fully tightened position on a Keihin PW22 Carburetor. Thanks
Norm
I suppose you might have got the throttle slide in backwards, or maybe the idle adjustment screw is turned in too far, or maybe the cable has seized. You should be able to sort that out by looking and feeling the throttle grip as you turn it. If worst comes to worst, you could remove the carburetor and look to see what the slide piston is doing when you turn the cable.
ReplyDeleteIt also may not be the throttle cable at all. Sometimes the engine races by itself with a normal throttle. This has happened to me on several occasions, usually the first time I try to start it up in the spring. I think it has something to do with being set too lean.
I don't have an exact recommendation for the air and idle screws. But the carburetor is really not that fussy about the settings, and usually one or two turns out are enough to allow the engine to start and run. It's only when you want to get a nice, slow, hands off idle that you need to be exact about the settings, and then you must simply fine tune it with the engine warm and running to see how it runs best.
Thanks for your input on my throttle cable problems will look into your possible suggested causes.
ReplyDeleteNorm
Hello again
ReplyDeleteThanks for the information on the petcock, the lead you gave me lead me to the CMS web site, where I was able to find the exact specification for the parts I needed. They are on order now.
I took the petcock to bits again yesterday, and got to thinking the flow from the tank should really be more than it is, I've had the petcock dismantled (except for the main body of the thing which I can't budge from the tank - single cross headed screw) overnight and there's hardly any gas seeping out, leading me to suspect there's a blockage further up towards the tank. This was my original suspicion when I moved the tank last time and drained it by turning it upside down. Given I can't (yet) budge the petcock from the tank do you know of any liquid product I could use to invasivly flush the tank? Is this good practice do you think? Do I persevere and try to get the petcock off? What would be typical in terms of gas flow when the petcock is fully open whith a tank full of gas?As always, your advice would be most welcome.
Thanks
Mike
I do not know of any liquid product, and for sure you should NOT use a blowtorch. I do not remember exactly what the screw looks like, but the first choice (after ruining the slot, which I assume is buggered by now) is to try and grab the head with a pair of vise grips or chip the head with a chisel and hammer it around. After that, I would try and drill it out, using a small enough bit to not mess up the threads in the tank.
ReplyDeleteI actually measured this gas flow at one point in my maintenenance log, but I am not at my home computer for a few days, so don't have time to find it. But it is normally "flowing" not "seeping". There must be clogging somewhere that needs to be cleared out.
i have a 1970 Honda cd175 i have just recently got it running yesterday it has been sitting behind my dads garage since 1986 i took the engine apart and put a new head on it new cam chain and master link new piston rings and a drive chain it runs on both cylinders strong but it doesn't seem to want to do more than 40 or 45 i don't know the actual speed the speedometer cable is broken i checked the valve timing right on the spot, ignition timing is top dead center, and static timing there all right where there supposed to be the carb has been tuned could it be my old points that have 14,00 miles or the flat rear tire could the rim just be spinning in the tire
ReplyDeleteWade: Just to clear up a few things you said
ReplyDeleteStatic timing is set according to the marks on the crank, while the engine is not running. Static timing is always a little bit before top dead centre. The other ignition timing is measured while the engine is running, and it is not TDC as you said, it is is more advanced than the static timing. There are some bob weights that advance the timing more as the engine spins faster. This automatic timing advance is necessary to produce power at higher rpm's. It is normally tested with a timing light while the engine is running. I do not normally check the timing advance at high rpm, I just do the static timing and make sure the advance is not stuck. This is getting pretty complicated, but it is also basic, and for someone who has put on a new cylinder head, it should be making sense. After all, you did install the cam chain and set it to the correct marks, didn't you? That is critical to the timing of the spark and the valves.
One other thing, you don't normally check valve timing once the engine is together, you would more likely check the valve clearance.
If you think the engine is spinning faster without the bike picking up speed, check the clutch slipping, not the back tire spinning on the rim. Also, I think you mean a worn down rear tire, not a flat rear tire. Yes, a flat rear tire will spin on the rim, but you should not be trying to exceed 45 mph on flat tires.
alright thanks the rear tire is flat the rubber track that protects the inner tube from the spokes dry rotted and fell out the rear won't hold air but the front will. but anyways i fixed the problem earlier today it was the battery it wasn't sending out enough power i put new battery acid in it and now after you get going and give it some gas it will jerk pretty good i studded my tires to the rim to see if maybe that was it to but im getting new tires for it. and i put new spark plugs it it yesterday and they went bad today there the cross reference of the originals that were in the bike when i got witch were p7's what plugs and brand do you use in your cd175
ReplyDeleteHi Wade. Wow! If I got you right you were doing over 45 mph on a flat rear tire after all?
ReplyDeleteSo to answer your question: NGK plugs DR8HA model.
Often we motorcyclists sign off by saying "Keep the rubber side down" but in your case, the rubber would be pretty much all over the place, so I'll just wish you luck.
haha thanks you too with your bikes thanks for the help
ReplyDeleteaye it's me again i went out side earlier before i got some more plugs and ran on both cylinders again could it be the carburetor letting to much gas in letting gas get on the resistors of the plugs if so what should i do with the fuel mixture screw give it more air or less
ReplyDeleteohh its a kehin pw22 carb
ReplyDeleteaye it's me never mind i'm getting rid of the bike io gave up when the kick starter spindel broke off so have fun with yours
ReplyDeletehi there,
ReplyDeletei just piced up a 1969 cd 175. it apparently was running when last owner stored it.
the battery is hooked up, and the lights work. i hear a click from the magnetic switch but the starter won't turn. possible weak battery?
now trying to kick start it. no spark. i checked and cleaned the breaker points. i don't see spark across those points when i kick it. where/what from here? i hear the condensors tend to go? what about the coil, it seems unlikely that a solid winding like that should break down? can old spark plugs just stop working? i cleaned them up. any help would be great. thanks.
You didn't say how long the storage was (1 week, or 30 years?) If it's a typical situation, I recommend getting a new battery as the first step, and new spark plugs. You have to see a spark at the plugs or it will not run.
ReplyDeleteAfter you get the spark, if it stioll won;t start check gas, carburetor.
With spark, compression, and gas, it will almost certainly start. After, if it does not make enough power or idle smoothly, it's easy to figure out.
hello,
ReplyDeletean update.. new battery is in, and the starter turns great. problem is.. still no spark. i checked for spark with one plug out and grounded to engine and then not grounded.
my understanding of how spark is generated is somewhat limited. power generated at alternator, then into a selenium rectifier which converts the a/c to d/c, then into the coil to 'boost' the voltage, then into the spark plugs? if the coil is gone then there should be no spark at the contact breaker points? is that right? just wondering where to start looking.
can you describe how to test to see if the alternator is putting out voltage?
i guess i know why it was 'parked' and not run anymore.
You may need some basic electrical test equipment to figure why there is no spark.
ReplyDeleteAt the contact breaker points, you are not looking for a spark, you are looking for 6 volts between the points when they are open. Although sparks sometimes occur at the points, sparks are not wanted here, and eventually will cause the points to degrade. A condenser is connected to the points, to minimize sparking. But I digress.
The next thing you must check, also at the points is that there is 0 voltage difference between the points when closed. That means there is a solid contact made. If the contact breaker points are not making and breaking the connection properly, you will not get a spark at the plugs.
I did not describe in great detail how to do the points check, there are lots of ways depending on your test equipment. For now I will assume you can do it, or can ask someone to help you check the voltage.
Next look at the spark plug, and I will describe this test in more detail, because there are lots of ways to do it wrong. A new plug is best, sometimes old plugs are shorted out. (Once I even got a new plug that was a dud) Make sure the spark plug wire is screwed properly into the cap. (The cap is the black plastic joint on the end of the spark plug wire.) Push the spark plug cap on to the top of the plug, and touch the threads of the plug against an engine fin. Sometimes you can get a high voltage jolt from holding the plug, so be careful - or get someone you don't like to do it. Or maybe just rest the plug on the engine fin without holding on to it. It doesn't need any pressure because there are thousands of volts coming through, enough to jump a gap of several millimeters of air, actually. Do it in the dark. In full sunlight you probably cannot see the spark, at night or in a dark garage it is very clear. Now turn on the ignition, and you should see the neutral light on the speedometer come on. Kick the engine over (without pulling in the clutch of course) It is easier with both plugs out of the engine, and you should check both plugs for spark anyway. While kicking the engine over, ignition turned on, look for the spark. I'm betting that you will get the spark by now and if you see sparks at both plugs (they should fire at the same time actually), you're done with this test.
If you still don't see spark on either plug, and you did the tests up to now carefully, you are getting in to areas I have never had a problem with, and you may need to get a new coil (I think it is possible to test a coil for proper resistance) or a new spark plug cap (apparently they can fail too) or a new spark plug wire (unfortunately it is molded into the coil, so it means you need a new coil.)
hello again,
ReplyDeletejust wanted to update you. got the bike to fire up this afternoon! put in new plugs, battery is good. i had to file and scrub the contact breaker points. i think perhaps the electrical lead from the breaker to the coil was partially unplugged.
the throttle seems to be stuck open at the moment, had to shut it down right away and there was a good amount of fuel coming out of the nipple on the bottom of the carb. next plan is to lube up the throttle cable and take apart the carb to clean it.
just wanted to say thanks very much for your help and speedy responses!
hi,
ReplyDeletewell i can now start the bike, but as soon as it fires it revs up really high and i have to shut it down. i pulled the carb, cleaned out alot of gunk, oiled the throttle cable overnight and reinstalled. now it doesn't rev as high, but still high enough that i fear damaging the engine because it isn't warmed up. it seems like the throttle is stuck part way open. i tightened up the throttle stop screw, and removed the throttle cable linkage from the handlebars.. no difference. do you think moving the slide needle down one position would help? i'm wondering if someone before me had carb problems as there are what looks like marks or scoring on the bottom of the throttle slide tube, almost like someone was prying at it with a screwdriver!! do you have any other ideas??
whoops, i forgot to ad one more question. do you think it is normal for the slide needle to have some side to side 'play'. i can get it to move slightly back and forth.
ReplyDeleteSide play is normal in the needle. Revving really high when you start it up is not normal, but it does happen a lot when you are first starting up the bike after storage. Sometimes it's because you made a mistake in installing the throttle cable or slide. But many other times there is no obvious problem, could be running too lean or something, I'm not really sure. These mystery revving problems on my bikes usually go away by themselves before I can figure them out.
ReplyDeleteok, thanks for that. i pulled the carb again and figured out that the needle jet holder wasn't screwed in far enough. also, the throttle stop adjustment was turned in way too far. the bike now starts and runs really well.
ReplyDeletenow.... the clutch seems to be seized on? i pulled the cover plate off to see the actuating arm where the cable attaches. there is no movement on the clutch shaft. i am going to take the right side cover off when i can drill out the silly phillips head bolts and replace them with hex heads. can you advise as to what i would look for once i can see the clutch? i am thinking the plates may be worn so far that the springs are unable to separate the plates anymore. do the springs themselves wear out??
I have never needed to pull apart a clutch. But I think you have it backward with the springs. The springs hold the plates together, and if they were too weak, the clutch would normally slip while driving. Your hand pulling the lever is what pulls the springs back to stop them from squeezing the pates together. But plates that are stuck together don't need any pressure to maintain solid contact (kind of like glue). Also, it's possible that some other problem is preventing the clutch from releasing. Hope this isn't too confusing, I recently answered another question just like this one, if you want to go back a few months in the comments.
ReplyDeletehey guys this is going to sound mad but i have just bought a go kart with a cd 175 engine on it but i cant get it started for love nor money i have fuel in the carb but none on the plugs plus i get no spark from them but can on my other bike plus has any one got some good diagrams of the wiring loom in to the engine as i have no idea what is ment to be butchered and whats not as there are wires hanging out all over the place cheers guys
ReplyDeletehi again,
ReplyDeletei know you mentioned you haven't pulled a clutch apart but thought i would ask and see if you have any ideas...
the clutch plates and friction discs are freed up. when pulled, the actuator pushes the shaft out to disengage the friction. now, when i reinstall the spring retainer ring something goes wrong. if i lightly torque the 4 bolts holding the springs in place the clutch works as it should. when i bottom out those bolts there is no room at all for the shaft to move to disengage the clutch. do you think it is normal to not have the spring retainer bolts torqued down all the way?? i know it doesn't make sense to leave them not fully tightened, but i can't think of anything else save one of the frction discs or clutch plates being warped thus preventing the shaft from being able to release the friction. all of the parts pass the measuring test according to my manual, and visually don't have any warpage.
any thoughts??
I am pretty sure the bolts should be tight. I would reinstall without any springs, tighten the bolts right down and see how the clutch action works. With no springs, you should be able to wiggle it by hand easily, and figure out how and if the clutch lifter mechanism works. If it binds when you tighten the bolts, even without the springs, then something really weird is going on, like maybe too many clutch plates in there.
ReplyDeleteok thats a good idea. will try that tomorrow.
ReplyDeleteany advice on single carb cd175 set up when the engine runs it revs way to high for tick over even with the choke off i have striped the carb down but cant see any major problems flotes in tact needle is clean spring is fine plus i get fuel running out of the run off pipe even when stood still any help would be great
ReplyDeleteDo you know the correct jet numbers and needle numbers for the PW22 and what groove to put the clip into thanks Creaky Rider
ReplyDeleteMy cd175 has a spark but it only last's a week i recently found out the solenoid is bad the points don't close all the way and the bike has been sitting in the weather for around 20 years and in storage for about 5 years i was thinking new coil, points, resistor and solenoid do you think this would fix the problem
ReplyDeleteI do not understand how there cane be a spark when the points don't close all the way. Unless I'm missing something, one or the other is incorrect.
ReplyDeleteCreaky Rider: I cannot look at the carburetor right now, but if it helps, my notes indicate the CD175 Keihin standard main jet is #105, standard slow jet is #40, and the clip normally is in the middle groove.
ReplyDeletemany thanks for the info,any idea where I could buy these jets? thanks again: Creaky Rider
ReplyDeleteHi...any idea where to find mufflers that look like the originals for a '68? I've tried Western Hills and David Silver Spares but no luck. There are some look alikes on ebay for different models but I haven't been able to find anything that looks similar that will fit my bike. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time - what a helpful site this is!
ReplyDeletethe points do close but only in the back from about half point to the front they are open and today i also found out the rectifier may be bad not sure but all 4 wires are bare by the unit i used electrical tape but the wires look like they burned off years ago could a bad rectifier make a resistor and coil seem bad
ReplyDeleteI have a link to where the jets can be found posted in a comment November 8, 2010, as part of a carb rebuild kit.
ReplyDeleteI cannot find look alike replacements for my own mufflers, it's also not easy to find custom replacements.
To Anonymous comment June 13, Your problem is not stated in your comment. I don't mind anonymous comments, but posting multiple times as anonymous, prevents me from following your thoughts.
I'm sorry i don't have a e-mail account i'll tell you my name in the posts my name is Wade. but i went and got new plugs again and it rund alright on a charger i put new boot's on the coil wires cause they say they have resistors in them and i put resistors on the spark plugs also but since i don't have a battery in the bike i hooked jumper cables from a 6 volt battery out of a 53 bel-air and it ran better with a battery then a charger caould it be doing this cause the rectifier is bad or becouse it just needs a new battery
ReplyDeleteWade: According to your comment, a new battery is probably needed, but if the rectifier is no good, it will not keep its charge up while riding. Also a bad rectifier will allow the generator to fry the battery while riding.
ReplyDeletethanks i heard it could also set the bike on fire but i was wondering how you could check it i was wondering if you turned the bike on with the rectifier unpluged and pluged it back in if it would change the lights like make them brighter
ReplyDeleteI would like to sell my CD175. It is in good shape, runs, and I have the title. Do you know of anyone in Southern California that would like to purchase it from me for $1000 cash. I am also willing to accept: $700 cash and $300 ($1000 total) towards restoring my 1978 Honda Express scooter.
ReplyDeletehello, i recently purchased a 69 cd175 and i am not sure where i can find parts for it when i search cd175 nothing usualy comes up but cb175 and are there parts interchangeable? also i removed my petcock and i think i messed something up the petcock was ruined to begin with but alot of websites show new ones with a steel tube comming out, and when i finaly got mine off it didnt have a tube come out? how can you put it back on with the tube there if you have to twist it on?
ReplyDeleteThe petcock does not twist off. It is held on by a single screw that you can see when you remove the sediment bowl. The sediment bowl does twist off so maybe that's where you made the mistake.
ReplyDeleteyes, i took off the bowl and found the screw. hopefully i didnt damage my tank to much. if i did is there anywhere i could get a good tank used if i have to. i cant find one on ebay
ReplyDeleteFor some parts, there is a steady supply: spark plugs batteries, tires, tubes, carb rebuild kits, petcock gaskets. For other parts you have to search, be patient, be lucky, get creative. Gas tanks are in the second category, where it is usually better to fix than to find a good used one.
ReplyDeleteCaution: be careful working on gas tanks, they can blow up and kill you if you don't know what you're doing.
ok thank you, ill defidently keep in touch about how my ride is going! my name is Aron by the way
ReplyDeletealso if i were to put silicone around the petcock would it provide a good enough seal so that it doesnt leak? also how do you use those 6 volt batteries do you just put the powder in it and add some water? ive never done this before so any help would be greatly apreciated
ReplyDeleteAll the six volt batteries I bought came with acid that was premixed, and added by the dealer.
ReplyDeleteThe petcock is sealed against the gas tank by an O-ring that is bent to form an oval. If the gas tank surface is not damaged, then the best method is to get an O-ring that fits the groove in the petcock. O-rings are available almost anywhere. I never tried silicone seal on the petcock, because I do not like fooling around where gasoline is involved.
oh ok, im just going to find a already mixed battery again i dont really want to mess it up haha. and its not damaged to much i will probaly wind up checking it for leaks. have you heard any good reviews on the mufflers on ebay? i understand you get what you pay for but you never know in this world!
ReplyDeleteHello, love your site. I've purchased a 1969 (?)CD175, thinking it's a K3 (because of the serial #'s) I read on your site that you had a "Haynes" manual for your bike, and I like their books. Do you have a resource for that book, and if not, is there an ISBN # on your's to help me track it down. Lots to do on the bike, but looking forward to it.
ReplyDeleteThanks
The title is
ReplyDelete"Honda CB125, 160, 175 & 200 Twins (Including CD175 but not CB125T)"
Owners Workshop Manual
ISBN 0 900550 67 8
Thanks so much for the info on the manual, hope it's easier to find than parts...
ReplyDeleteThanks
Hi, just got a 69' CD175. It's my first bike, and, despite what I was told, removing the carb for cleaning is rather complicated for me. There are few online resources also. How do I detach the throttle cable? And the rubber hosing going into the frame is inhibiting removal. It is almost jammed in place so I can't slide it off of the bolts. Any chance you can help a newbie?
ReplyDeleteIt is very difficult to give step-by step instructions through the internet. Even when I have the bike in front of me, I often try different methods to loosen, or disassemble something, until I find one that works. And hopefully I don't break something before I get it apart, and that happens too. It takes time and experience to know how hard, and where to hit or force something to take it apart without breaking it.
ReplyDeleteYou have been given some careless advice. You were told that removing a carb for cleaning is not complicated?? Was someone telling you that to sell you the bike? The truth is, for some people it's relatively easy (like me who has done it countless times, and yet still I make mistakes that takes time to figure out) For other people it's a complete mystery, a puzzle that needs weeks to figure out, and they could easily lose or break a vital part while doing it, but not even know it until they ride the bike then it may take weeks to trouble shoot and figure out what went wrong.
Newbies come in many different types. I really don't know anything about your situation. You may be an older person like myself, who is simply looking for something to do to pass the time, and has tools and workshop space and enjoys reading parts manuals, and tinkering for hours. Or you may be a young teenager who needs transportation to get to classes and parties, and is trying to disassemble a carburetor in a parking lot in time to get to their job, and has no manuals or tools to speak of. In which case I would wonder why buy a 42 year old motorcycle.
I would love to help, and I don't want to sound negative, but maybe you should start off with a shop manual. The rubber hosing going into the frame -is that the inlet tube to the air filter? It's rubber and it can bend - but 42-year-old rubber sometimes gets stiff and cracks, so be careful, it's hard to replace. What more can I say without being right there?
In 1971, in what was then Portuguese Guinea (now Guinea Bissau), I bought 2nd hand a CD125 Honda twin, single carburetor, 12,5 HP, solo seat + luggage rack sporting a removable buddy seat, exactly similar to the blue CD175 in your homepage opening picture. It was a very sturdy, easily maintained bike. I can't remember how many times I had to disassemble that carburetor, even at night by the light of street bulbs, to clean it from the residues left by bad quality fuel. Not really that difficult.
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately, it being a war theater at the time and my having been wounded and sent back home in a hurry, I had to leave my motorcycle there to rust...
I never managed to find any direct reference to this specific model on the net, only indirectly via the CD175. Would you happen to know of some place where I may find some data and pictures of the CD125?
Thanks
GLF in Portugal
You can find data in the shop manual, many of those are available, and usually combine the CD125/175 in one book.
ReplyDeleteThere is a picture of a blue one like yours on the internet at this web page. Right click on the picture then click "view image" to get a larger, sharper picture
"1969 Honda CD125"
George here. From Kitchener. We chatted years ago. Still have my 67 CD175. Seems to be quite the interest in these bikes again. Are there enough people locally to form a club? I'm at the point where I can overhaul almost anything on that bike with my eyes closed!! Maybe I can help keep one or two on the road.
ReplyDeleteCheers.
I have been thinking about a "Bike Rescue" club for a while. If you would like to attend our first meeting at Tim Horton's on Homer Watson at 401, give me a time and date.
ReplyDeleteSubject for discussion: What kind of club is it?
Thanks, Lost Motorcyclist,it's been years since I last saw a picture of that model (actually, mine was red, but it's a pleasure looking at one again anyway...)
ReplyDeleteAll the best
GLF
i have a 1970 cd175 i just put a carb rebuild kit in and runs better but the bikes always had a hit miss problem with the cylinders it would hit and when the cylinders come back up it misses then it hits the next time round could this be my points and resistor witch both are factory stamped HM and have 14,500 miles on them.
ReplyDeleteanother question i would like to ask is i have to replace my spark plugs every year cause it starts missing the ignition coil and boots I put in it last February they were brand new then they got about 150-250 miles on them.
I have put a lot of parts in it she sat outside since 1978 or 1979 i believe
but here are the parts i have put in it i don't know if makes a difference on why it runs like it does.
Cylender Head
cam Shaft
rockers
valves
valve seals
piston rings and wrist pins
carb rebuild kit
air cleaner
these are just the engine parts i have put in if there is something else that can make it do this that isn't mechanical mention it in what you think and i'll let you know.
my name is wade
i fixed the plugs problem the bolt that hold the wire from the resitor to the points was a little lose but it's still doing the hit miss thing.
ReplyDeletei was messing with the points to check for spark at the plugs i found out every 2nd time they open they miss like open spark, open nothing, open spark. the points do have an indent on the lower point and a spike in the upper point they only close front then the back is open they aren't level. is think this is my points and resistor correct me if i am wrong
thank Wade
You could try filing or grinding down the points. It may be easier if you disassembled them first. If that doesn't work, I suggest to get a kit with new points and condenser.
ReplyDeletethanks i'll try that
ReplyDeletewade
Here-s a question - kick starter shaft for cd175 - would it fit one from cb175?
ReplyDeleteThe kick starter shaft (or spindle)is part number 28250-235-00, and this is the same part number for serial number CD175E-200001up, CB175E-4000001 up, and CL175E-4000001 up. According to the parts manual for model K3-1.
ReplyDeleteI hope that helps, because I have not personally had the experience of changing the kick start spindle. (I assume you are not talking about the actual, kick start lever that is on the outside of the engine and easily replaceable.)
No, the shaft. They snap, common problem..
ReplyDeleteI would imagine 12v starter from cb175 would be fine as well?
Cheers and Thanks!
Ooops, I missed this post. Well, it's a bit late now, but here goes. The part number for the CD175 starter motor assembly (6volt) is 31200-303-158. For the CB175 starter motor assembly(12volt) it is 31200-306-158. So, it is not the same part number, and the voltage requirement is 6v not 12v.
DeleteHi
ReplyDeleteI am looking at a 1970 cd175. My mechanic says to stay away from it at all costs due to the 6 volt system, He says his old one caused him more problems than what it was worth, 1 hour riding to 2 hours tinkering, I am no mechanic so I am wondering what the downside of the 6 volt system is.
It is one sweet bike though.
Thanks ctrider
There is much to say about why 6 volt systems are to be avoided, but that is not the real question here. The question you should be asking yourself is why a 1970 CD175 especially when you say you are no mechanic? If it's free and in excellent running order, OK then I understand.
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I am running mine on the 6 volt system. So far I have not had any real difficulties - but before you buy a CD175 maybe you should read my website at www.microverse.on.ca/cd175. It provides some insights into what riding an old bike is all about.
Thanks Robert
ReplyDeleteIt is a great website. I read almost all of it.
I have a 1970 ct70 and a 1974 as well.
The cd175 has been pretty much rebuilt.
New pipes, seat, powder coated, re chromed.
Top end re done. That being said, I know there will be maintenance. Just not sure how much
and what problems the 6 volt system could give me.
ctrider: When I look up 1970 and 1974 CT70, both are six volt. Another six volt Honda should actually fit right in, may use some of the same bulbs. So what are the disadvantages of 6 volt? It may be a bit difficult to locate replacement light bulbs. It's not impossible, but 12v bulbs are readily available almost everywhere (except the headlight, which is special). Otherwise, it has not been too difficult for me.
ReplyDeleteThe Lost Motorcyclist
Hello
ReplyDeleteDo you have any advice on the slider on the stock cd175 carb (1978 bike), specifically my throttle has "lost its spring" following me taking off the carb for a clean. I put everything back as per standard, but the slider now refuses to spring back when thr throttle is released. I've not started the bike up again yet, so the problem may "cure itself" once fuel is flowing through the carb and the vacume mechanism kicks back in? Is this something you have come accross or have a view on?
Many thanks
Mike
If you really (no quotes) lost the spring, check a motorcycle wreckers, and take the slider with you. If the throttle simply does not return, you need to troubleshoot where the problem lies. If you can't feel it or see it with the carb in place, I suggest taking off the carb again, and looking closely at the slide and see if you can work it up and down with the spring in place, or see what is holding it in an up position. At the same time, check the action of the throttle cable by pulling it in and out from the carburetor end, and see how the throttle grip turns. The solution should become obvious as you play with it.
ReplyDeleteI just purchased a CD 175 serial number CD175-2016863.It is red,with the small seat ,and luggage rack.Any help idenifying the year,and or model would be much appreciated.Thanks in advance,Ron.
ReplyDeleteYou probably have a CD175K3. I have a detailed web page to identify the various CD175 models.
ReplyDeleteHonda CD175 Gallery
Read the description near the bottom of the K3, it will give more details.
Yes,I think you are right.I found your site after I posted my question.It looks to be a 1969 K3 from the description.Ron.
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI am a new owner of a "73 CD175 it runs and rides good with only 13000 miles.
The reason I post is none of my lights work with a test light they all have power, any thoughts???
Michael, just so that I'm clear on the problem, you're saying none of your lights work, but every socket has been individually tested and has power? The only conclusion is that all your lights are burned out. That sometimes happens when the voltage regulator is allowing too much voltage, and the master fuse has been swapped for a piece of straight metal, and then the engine is revved and every light blows out. Am I right?
ReplyDeleteAfter looking at each light... none of them are burnt out. I am thinking that the system has a bad ground or that the winker relay has gone. As I am a new owner I am trying to find these things and it can be quite a process. Where is the relay and have yo ever encountered this problem befor?
ReplyDeleteMichael, I must have misunderstood when you said none of the lights work, and you said they all have power. I assumed you had tested for power in each socket. And when you say none of the lights work, do you mean none of the turn signal lights are blinking? Or do you mean none of the lights on the motorcycle light up at all, including the instrument lights, tail, and head lights? It's very important in figuring out the problem to know which lights work, which do not work, and exactly how they don't work.
ReplyDeleteIt's always best to accurately describe the problem, even when you are just thinking about it yourself. I would not say that a light "does not work" and leave it at that. Here are some ways a light does not work. It won't turn on at all. It only turns on at certain times, like if the engine is running. It flickers on and off. It is steady, but dim. It is stead when it should be blinking. It burns too bright and then burns out quickly.
Hello, I have a 1969 CD175 which I am slowly working the bugs out of. My recent problem is the bike not charging the battery while running. The bike runs fine with a fully charged battery, but the headlight doesn't brighten with higher revs, and the voltage doesn't increase from the the battery. I was able to see voltage increase after the rectifier. I recently omitted several wires from the handlebar system, because I put on clubmans. I simply taped them off and left them in the harness. Does anyone know why I would be having a charging problem?
ReplyDeleteMy knee jerk reaction is to say the rectifier or regulator is fried. The original rectifier is a weak spot, and developments in electronics since 1969 give us more reliable rectifiers and voltage regulators.
DeleteFor a more specific answer to your problem, more information is helpful. Here are some examples of facts that could help diagnose the problem. How much of a voltage increase did you see? From x volts to y volts? And what did you do to get that increase? Revving the engine? If so, without a tach its would be hard to tell how fast it was running at the start of the test and at the end. Do you have a new battery? How are you charging it for these tests? Is it the correct battery for the bike? Are you running with the lights on? Which wires were cut off an taped up?
Thanks for getting bak to me so fast! I ordered a new rectifier and installed it, which doesn't seem to be helping the charging problem. The battery is new, but was run dead do to the charging issue. The battery is the correct battery for the bike. I recharged the battery and left it sitting for a few days. The battery was holding 6 + volts off the bike. When I turn the bike on it starts fine but doesn't increase in volts when I rev the engine. I don't have a tac, so I couldn't tell you what RPM's I was using. Before I installed the new rectifier, I was seeing a slight increase in volts after the rectifier. ( Something like a half volt increase) The next step I will take is use a different battery to rule out that problem. I will let you know as soon as I get a new battery on there
DeleteThanks!
Hi,I just bought a CD 175 in disrepair.It is not charging and I am looking for the rectifier. I have the seat and tank off but cannot see a rectifier. It may be missing. Where should it be mounted? Peter in Bermuda
ReplyDeleteTricky question, but I will try to help. The answer depends partly on the year of manufacture, but even then, I assume many owners substituted generic parts and mounted the rectifier wherever they liked. However, for the original rectifier on the 1969-70 vertical twin model, it is tucked in the middle just between the frame rails, just below where the front of the seat meets the back of the tank. If it is original, you can tell by the orange colour, and the metal cooling fins. Newer components will usually be much smaller, usually black, and somewhere near this place simply because the space is there, and the original harness is accessible. There is a branch of the main harness very near this point that you could try to follow just a few inches to see what it connects to.
DeleteRe: rectifier. Thank's so much for your advice. The rectifier was exactly where you said it would be, tucked away underneath between the frame rails. I removed it and checked the diodes and it is ok. Thanks, Peter
ReplyDeletei know this isn't your average question but i was wondering if you had a spare gas tank for sale for a 1970 Honda cd175 mine started leaking pretty bad i can find them on the internet but there all $300-400 bucks i found a few on eBay but they don't ship to the united states i just need one thats fairly clean on the inside, no leaks, or major dents i was hoping $125 and under depends on the shape it's in paint don't matter i gotta respray everything on mine. you can contact me at Wademartin54@Gmail.com thanks
ReplyDeleteHello, does anyone know where i can find a new ignition coil for a 1969 Honda CD175, i havent had any luck so far in my search. Email me back at John.Lynch1993@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance.
I'm not very familiar with the CD175. Believe it or not I came across some parts from a CD175. Two engines one in terrible shape and peices of another. Front and rear fender (from what I've read seems to be off a 68-69 because the tail light has a bracket that goes horizontally onto the fender??) not sure if this is correct. Also a gas tank and a side cover. Question...the fenders are plastic. I've rebuilt several Hondas from the 70s and the only parts that are plastic are the side covers. Are these fenders factory or a cheap aftermarket version? Any info helpful. Thanks in advance..
ReplyDeleteOn the 1970 CD175 the headlight cowl is also plastic, but the fenders are steel.
ReplyDeleteI don't have the earlier CD175, or the Honda Cub, but I thought they both had plastic fenders.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI have a problem with a cd 175
after 20 miles or so the spark plug on the same cylinder stop sparking, but it drives perfect for those 20 miles or so.
What I mean is that on cyliner A (always. it starts misfiring after 15 - 20 miles, it then gets to the stage where no spark comes from that plug,. Pop in a new plug and the whole process starts all over again
Any suggestions
Coil ?
Regulator ?
What does the bad plug look like? You can use the colour of the insulator tip for troubleshooting the combustion process. It would be useful to know what would happen if you could reverse the spark plug leads (left lead to the right plug etc.) They both fire at the same time, so the bike works just as well. But if the problem switches from A to B, then you have a problem with a spark plug lead. If it is still A, then I suspect there is something wrong with the valves, or piston rings. Everything else on the bike is shared between the two cylinders (one carburetor one coil, one set of points), and so there is no reason one cylinder could be different from the other because of the coil or regulator.
Deleteis there a quick fix to fix a kick start that only engages when oil is cold?
ReplyDeleteI would guess the problem is in the clutch, because a cold clutch can hold when it might slip easier if hot. Except the clutch, everything connecting the kick start to the crank is shafts and gears, which would work the same hot or cold.
DeleteIf you are absolutely sure this is temperature related, and not purely random, you may need to adjust the clutch to be tighter. Make sure the clutch lever goes all the way out when kick starting, make sure the slack in the cable is right. If that does not work, adjust the other end. You may have a slipping clutch. Ever notice clutch slipping while riding in 4th gear? Does the clutch work right otherwise?
This is a fantastic website with some really useful info.I ve got a 1978 cd 175 that i am trying to restore.Are any of the parts common with other motorcycles eg carb,wheels,forks,these particular parts are beyond repair on my bike,many thanks, Paul
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment. I do not know of an extensive cross reference of parts that would fit from other bikes. I suspect that if this list existed, it would be very short.
DeleteIn a front end collision, it is possible for wheels and forks to be destroyed beyond repair. But what happened to the carb? Did it catch fire and melt?
The bike has been stored outside and not run for about 10 years.The forks are badly pitted and one of the stantions is bent.The rear wheel has got a series of hairline cracks in the hub where the spokes pass through it,the front wheel is badly rusted,the hub may be salvageable.As for the carb,it looks as though something has been dropped on it,its bent and distorted.The bike is in pieces.
ReplyDeleteI put a 12vlt battery on a 1973 honda 175 I had ignition light then it went off . Ive put a 6vlt battery on it since and have no ignition light!
ReplyDeleteHave i done some damage? if so what ?
Check the main fuse, which is clipped to the battery holder, inside a little plastic capsule that opens like a clamshell.
DeleteDoes anyone know what size washer is needed for a 1969 cd175 Honda . It's on kick starter, which is blown and leaking air~ thanks
ReplyDeleteIt's likely the oil seal, and the size is 14 x 24 x 5, part number 91202-302-000 (measurement and part number from the parts catalog)
DeleteHi, My name is Rob, I have a 1973 Honda CD175-3016098 the bike has not Run in a while. the bike was originally purchased in Ontario by my grandfather for my uncle new. My uncle had died in a car accident two years latter. The bike had minimal miles put on it because my uncles girlfriend was not able to ride on it. when my uncle passed away my grandfather put the bike in his garage where the bike sat until he gave it to me in 2007. I had brought the bike to the US where I currently live in 2007 and attempted to start up the bike with just getting the tank redone and the carb cleaned aswell as fresh plugs and oil. the bike did not want to start at first but eventually i got it. it started to race so i shut it down. after that I did not work on it because i did not have the time nor money until just the other day. I ordered a new battery and put fresh gas plugs and new gaskets on the carb bowl because it seemed to leak. the leaking has subsided now. while i was waiting for my battery to come in I decided to try to kick start it to see if it would fire up. had to give up because i could not get it to start for the life of me and was hot and muggy out. Today I went and pulled the plugs out to take a look at them and one of them looked brand new still and the other was dark. the one that was new smelled like gas but had no sign of firing. My question is what would cause one side not to fire and would this also be the reason that when it did fire up a few years ago that it was hard to start? Im just looking for a direction to go with this bike I will get it running eventually.
ReplyDeleteI have a 1970 Honda CD175 just put a new stator in it but the battery still won't stay charged could it be my voltage regulator
ReplyDeleteThe battery is 2 weeks old
yes its the voltage regulator the same thing happened to my honda !!
DeleteI am motorcycling across Canada until the end of August. Will not be able to make lengthy responses until Iam back to my keyboard. Meanwhile check out my blog Lost and Burgie go west.
ReplyDeleteRob trying to confirm for a new parts for my bike i need a new cylinder and pistons for it the bike is a 73 cd175 and i have found a cylinder that is listed as a 68-69 ca175 or cd175. will this be the same one for my bike?
ReplyDeleterobert_steckley@yahoo.com
from what i can tell the (us model cylinder is part number 12100-235-000 and the canada model is part number 12100-302-000 is there a difference with these they look the same
ReplyDeleteLet me start by saying I have not tried switching cylinders myself, but then often when installing my own parts (even on newer bikes) I am forced to make a guess. I don't think those cylinders are the same. Now I will try to explain why I am doubtful.
Delete1969 was the year they switched actual production from the slant twin to the vertical twin engine, and most parts were changed between those two engines. The part number 12100-302-000 is correct for the vertical twin cylinders, the 235 digits refer to the earlier, slant model.
Honda did not actually use years to refer to their parts (such as 1968, 1969, 1970) so those dates are only a rough guide. I suspect that a reference to a 68-69 model would probably be the slant engine type.
When you say the cylinders look the same, I don't know if you are referring to the actual parts, or pictures, or diagrams of the parts, or possibly of just measurements of the parts. But I would take a second look, because even the smallest difference could be a problem. Like a misaligned oil hole or alignment pin.
Hi, I came across your site after buying a 1978 CD175 from Ebay a couple of months ago.
ReplyDeleteI can't find a frame number anywhere. There is nothing on the head stock.
Do you know if there were any without frame numbers?
I don't have a V5 with it which is why I need a frame number.
Great site by the way with lots of helpful comments.
Cheers
Brian
I have three CD175 frames, they all have frame serial numbers, and I believe it is a requirement by the government that they put the serial numbers on. This is what it looks like to me, that they put the frame number on a metallic labels that appears to be rivetted or nailed on to the head stock on the right side, close to the headlight (near the front.) I have not tried to remove one, but if someone did remove it, I think it may leave two small holes, which could easily be filled in with putty and painted over.
DeleteThere is also a serial number on the engine, but I guess that would not be acceptable.
Thanks for that, the frames I have seen have the number stamped on them but there are no traces of number or rivets!!!
DeleteBrian
Hi all.I have just bought a Honda CD175 of 1976 vintage.As I do not have an owners manual/handbook with the macihine
ReplyDeleteCan anyone please tell me how do you lift the dual seat up..?
Stuart.
I don't have that year bike, but if it's like the 1970 model, look for two bolts in the frame behind the top shock mounting bolts. Remove those bolts completely and the seat lifts up from the rear.
Delete("behind" meaning toward the rear of the bike)
Thanks for that. -- yes you are right. -- it does . Thanks again.
DeleteStuart.
Hi again. Does anyone know where I can get a owners manual or owners handbook for my recently purchased 1976 Honda CD175 ?
ReplyDeleteI have tried eBay & even " hard to find " book specialists on the net,but without success. I already have a Haynes workshop manual for the bike, but I could do with having the owners handbook as well.
This is a great site & very glad I came across it.
Hi i have a 70' CD175 it'll do 35-40mph easy but takes 1-2min to get to 45 and 3-4min to get to 50 witch is the fastest i would every ride this bike with it's under gearing.
ReplyDeleteWade
sorry i forgot the question to go with that ^
ReplyDeleteis the bike supposed to do those speeds relativly easily or is there something wrong with the motor.
The road is smooth and dry and i'm 150lbs.
Wade Thanks
I could say something wrong with the motor or the speedometer, but actually there are many other factors. Both my current bikes can do 65 mph under the right conditions. But with top speed, the most important things are headwind and hills.
DeleteLet's start with technique. Accelerate to nearly the maximum speed in each gear, especially third gear (as indicated on the speedometer face). Above 50 mph, lean forward, and keep your head down to decrease wind resistance. If you are already doing this, and you still can't break the 60 mph barrier, something else is wrong.
Some of questions for you. Do you have the original gearing for the bike? Front sprocket 17 teeth, rear sprocket 39 teeth. Does the bike run smoothly or is there misfiring at higher speeds? Are you sure you are running on both cylinders?
And finally, have you done a good tuneup of the bike (timing, valve clearances), and have you checked the compression and the spark plug colour? Is there smoke coming out of the exhaust. Speaking of which, do you have the original exhaust system? Is the exhaust system plugged? Is the intake system blocked?
Hopefully I have touched on something that could help.
P.S. Make sure you are not running on a flat tire, like one of my earlier Q&A's
The gearing is original and in good shape. it runs smoothly i rebuilt it three years ago with new pistons and rings (stock bore). pretty sure both cylinders are firing i check when the engine is cold i start the bike then hold on to the downpipes and they both warm up. it was timed when rebuilt professionally the exhaust is aftermarket but not clogged only a year old. the airfilter is clean but original. the intake manifold is clear as well.i also have not adjusted the valves i found that the clearince is .002 is this correct. I never did the ignition timing ethier how would you do this. no there brand new tires and that was me i rode it like that when i was 14 im 16 now and love this old bike. Been in the family since 1974. Thank you and ride safe.
DeleteOK Wade, I missed the fact that you were the same person that contacted me a year ago. Welcome back. Didn't you say last time you were getting rid of the bike because the kick start spindle broke? Are you push starting it now or what?
DeleteThe valve clearance of .002" is correct.
In order to help you further with your bike, I think it would be easier for me to use email. Could you get my email address from this web page (below)?
http://www.microverse.on.ca/cd175/ebanner.htm
Hi Great site I,ve got a 1975 cd 175 I,ve just bought NOS rear mudguard(fender) off ebay mint cond but prob is its not the flared version can you pls tell me what model its likely to be off as I,ll have to resell and search again for flared one.
ReplyDeleteTony
If you could check my email address that I gave on Oct 18 (just above at 6:43 PM), and send me a picture by email, I could take a look at it. No promises, though. If you don't have a picture, could you tell me anything about the fender? Like does it fit the bolt holes, is it chrome or paint, what colour etc?
DeleteLove the fact that there is so much interest in the CD 175, wish there was more info on it in the parts / resource world. Thanks for keeping the site going. I have a question about the contact points. I'm in the middle of a rebuild of a '69/70, engine serial #2001402, and am looking for the points that are listed in the parts manual (30200-235-013). The one's I got from the local shop that said they would fit, don't. I don't see any replacement items that appear to be like the one's I have. Any thoughts on where to find them? Would I be better off replacing the whole plate that they're attached to, would that work?
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the information, let me know if you've got any ideas.
Mike
According to my parts list (Honda CD175 K4 and A4), the correct part number for the points would be either 3202-107-004, or 3202-216-005. The 3202 part # include the spring, the pivot, and both sides of the points, and maybe the electrical wire and connector.
DeleteThere is a part number for the whole assembly including the circular base plate, felt pad, points, connecting wire, and all the mounting screws. That part number is 30200-235-004 or 30200-235-015. The 30200 indicates the part, named Breaker assembly (Hitachi)
There is a set of breaker points on eBay with the correct part number, and picture and also lists other bikes it fits. (I have not ordered these points, so I don't actually know if they fit.) If your points do not fit, could tell us if you see any difference between your points and these?
Link http://www.ebay.com/itm/251162023011?item=251162023011&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&cmd=ViewItem&hash=item3a7a6c5463&vxp=mtr
Thanks for the ebay lead, and the other info as well. The link you sent shows a set of points that look close to what I have. Specifically, they differ from what I've seen elsewhere on ebay, as well as the ones I've purchased, because they have a middle hole (not just the two on the ends where you screw them to the plate). This middle hole accomodates an adjustment screw. While this may not be all that necessary, since you normally can just adjust them with the elongated end screw hole, the other sets of points don't have this hole. The real difference is the post that holds the plastic arms that rotates on the cam. The underside of the post on mine, that touches the plate, is small and fits into an existing hole in the plate. The points I recently purchased, have a larger diameter post, and keeps the unit from contacting the mounting plate. This link shows the same plate and point (with middle hole that I'm describing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CL175-K0-ignition-points-plate-CB175-SL175-CL160-CB200-CL200-K1-K3-K4-K5-/300792186104?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46089c84f8&vxp=mtr
DeleteThe seller from the link you posted, also sells the entire base as you mentioned in your message. I should be able to get something from them that'll work. Hope the long winded explanation above makes sense, it's frustrating when you order aftermarket parts that are supposed to fit (twice), and they are not identical. But I guess that's part of the fun.
If you're up for another question, I'm also looking for the front brake cable. It has a switch connected to it, lower down by the headlight bucket, that is part of the cable assembly itself. I've only seen one, and it was listed as a fit for the CL. I wonder if that'll fit.
Thanks for your help, Mike
About the brake cable, My CD175 did not need a front brake switch, the brake light operated off the rear brake pedal only. The USA version had the front brake switch inline with the cable. My bike is the international version.
DeleteI do not know if the CL cable will fit, am only guessing here, but the difference between the CD and CL front brake cable could be the length, with the CL being longer because of the wider handlebars, and the longer forks.
Now about the points assembly. I have seen situations where you buy an aftermarket assembly that fits the bike, but the individual components don't. For example, the entire points plate works as a unit, but the component parts of the assembly are not interchangeable with the original points plate assembly. And sometimes the parts fit, but don't work properly when the bike is running. There are plenty of pitfalls with NOS third party parts.
It's really difficult to cross reference parts from one model to the other, and I have spent a lot of time looking through brake cables at a local salvage yard and at swap meets. That's where I get most of the stuff that is tricky to fit.
That's my fear about the brake cable, not a lot of options that I can think of though. I might order the CL cable and roll the dice. As for the points, the old ones definitely won't clean up, so I'll do a little more research and take the plunge on those as well. Thanks
ReplyDeleteHi there i have a 1973 honda 175 cd,i have just purchased a pair of tank chromes but unfortunatly i have found out that they are from a later model (1978).My question is if i was to purchase the later model tank would i be able to fit it to my 1973 model.I have noticed that the petrol tap is on the other side of the tank but i know i can easily fix this,Many Thanks hope you can help me out!
ReplyDeleteWe don't have the later models in Canada or the USA, so I have never seen a real 1978 gas tank. But from pictures, it seems to me that Honda was only trying to make the tank safer and more modern looking by sloping the top down toward the seat. Since the rest of the bike looks the same, I don't see why the fittings would have changed.
DeleteI know this is not a really good answer to your question, so all I can really say is I don't know whether it would fit, but good luck on either finding a new tank or new chrome panels (depending on which you find first or at the best price).
Thanks for reply as the chromes are in excellent condition i will try to seek out the tank first once again thankyou & glad to have found such a helpful & informative website All the Best from the UK & will keep in touch!
DeleteBoth tanks are interchangeable, but, as you say use different shaped chrome plates and rubbers. I too have the 'wrong' fuel tap fitted which has the outlet pipe exiting in the wrong direction. But, it isn't really a problem, as much as an anomoly. And, as Robert has also pointed out earlier (years) in the forum, it doesn't matter if you have the modern connector tube beneath the 2 tank halves or you have to stop and lean the bike over if you forgot to fill up. Either are fine.
DeleteHey there,
ReplyDeleteI recently bought a Honda CD175 in Australia (thus it was pricier than if I'd bought it in the UK or USA.) It has a bit of rust (it wasn't winterised, so I'm clearing out the tank), no battery, a twisted handlebar, and old fuel lines but they're the only problems I've encountered (so far). It came with a single seat and back rack, but I'm really after a dual seat. Are there any generic dual seats that can be fitted, or does it need something a specific seat? Are there other bikes with dual seats that can be transplanted, so to speak?
Thanks for your time,
Lauren
You didn't say why you want to change it (for comfort, for lighter weight, for vintage showing etc?) I prefer the solo seat and luggage rack to the dual seat. I think in Australia, that the dual seat setup may be harder to find than the solo seat, because the postal bikes had the luggage rack.
DeleteThe closest commonly available seat that looks like the CD175 seat is the CB175, but the CB seat is mounted on a hinge, where the CD175 dual seat mounts on a slip-in bracket at front and a bolt-on bracket at the rear. I am not aware of any easily available seat that would fit readily, but if you really want to, you could find a dual seat, take it apart and bolt some fabricated brackets to the pan to make it fit.
On one of my bikes, I found a seat (unknown origin) at a swap meet that looked like it would fit, so I bought it, then had to bend the rear brackets on the seat to fit the bike. I also made some rubber blocks to support the seat at the front. The front bracket is not in the right place, so it's only bolted at the rear. But it's OK as long as I don't try to lift the bike onto the centre stand by pulling on the front of the seat.
Thanks for that. I wanted to change it both for the vintage look and to make my passenger more comfortable. I don't need the rack as I have saddle bags. I suppose it'll come down to the cost of a CB175 seat and if I can find one vs importing one from the UK where they're more prevalent.
DeleteHi again! I have another seat question. I have located a dual seat from a different CD model, slightly earlier, and wondered if you could clarify for me that it would fit a K5, a CD originally built for the single seat and backrack? I've looked at photos of both bikes and can't see any difference in the frames/rear fender, so in theory it should work, right? (I'm really hoping for this because getting a custom seat made here would cost close to $1000, and I don't want to spend that kind of money. I don't think anyone would!)
DeleteThanks,
Lauren
I have three CD175 bikes, all nearly identical, but different years or markets. Two came with dual seats, one with the solo seat and luggage rack. The frames all have a tube in front of the engine, the engines are all vertical twins. This is quite different from the earlier CD175s with a stamped steel frame and slanted engine. On any of my three bikes, I can install either the standard dual seat, or I can install the solo seat and and luggage rack. The front catch is the same on both types of seat, the far rear fender bolts are in the same place, all three have extra bolt holes for the front of the luggage rack and the rear of the solo seat. It's a bit more tricky fitting the luggage rack, because the rear fender bolts need a threaded hole drilled in the centre. The dual seat is easier to install because it works with either type of rear fender bolt.
DeleteAn alternative for some people (which I have done myself), is to build only the seat pad for the luggage rack (which I assume you do not have). I did it myself for less than $20 just foam, naugahyde, and a flat piece of plywood. It sits flat on the luggage rack, but can be removed if you need to carry luggage. As I mentioned before, I prefer the look of the solo seat and luggage rack, which are extremely rare in Canada. But then I guess in Australia its the dual seat that is harder to find.
That's excellent news! I know I'll hang onto my single seat and rear rack in case I sell it in later years, but finding a pre-loved dual seat for $150 AU is damn good (compared to the $1000 for a custom seat). Much obliged!
Deletei have 72 cd175 in mint cond with 1500 original miles are these bikes worth much?
ReplyDeleteYou could try selling it on eBay, where you can just set a minimum price. I couldn't really tell you what it's worth without seeing the bike because mint means different things to different people. Finding the buyer is the most important thing in getting a price for the bike.
DeleteWould it be possible to fit a CB175 cylinder head and twin carbs to my CD175? They are both from the same year.
ReplyDeleteI have not tried this substitution myself, so I can't say for sure. But looking on the CMS website, I see the CB175 K5 has the same part number for the CYLINDER ASSEMBLY (that the head sits on.) as the CD175 K4. (Part # 12100-302-000) So I don't see why it would not fit. There may be other issues, such as fitting the twin carbs and filters, and hooking them up to the hand throttle. Those would also be problems for me, but maybe not for someone with more experience (or ambition). I would not buy a new CB175 cylinder head just to get twin carbs, when they cost over $600 at CMS. But maybe you found a good deal and your CD cylinder head is trashed?
DeleteHey there, just a quick question about the handlebar. I was looking at replacing mine (previous owner must have crashed it to the left and there's a slight bend--ridable, but it's much safer to have a squared off handlebar) and the mechanic said he was unable to switch the handlebar with a new one; something about the mechanics in the throttle being attached the bars? Could anyone suggest a suitable replacement that doesn't have to be OEM, and will still take the throttle mechanism?
ReplyDeleteThe CD175 throttle mechanism is not very common, the cable is pulled by a screw action. This throttle needs the handlebar to have a precisely shaped slot in it, and a hole for the cable to emerge. Much more common, even on Honda motorcycles at the time would be a rotary drum type throttle, which works with a plain tubular handlebar.
DeleteOne of my CD175s has a non-original rotary drum type throttle, and the matching switchgear. It looks very similar to the original CD175 throttle, but I could not tell you which model it came from. If you look for throttle grips on eBay, you will see that the CB175 has a rotary throttle, and so does the CB350 (the early seventies models)
I suspect that a CB175 throttle, switch, and cable might work if you could get it from a local recycle shop. It might be easier than trying to machine the slot in the new handlebar. Another alternative would be to look for an original CD175 handlebar on eBay. I see there is a new CD175 handlebar for sale right now for US $49.99 plus shipping from Singapore to USA for $59.99 from oldpartsshop. It looks right, but their part number does not match mine. My book says 53100-302-700 (I am not connected in any way with oldpartsshop, and have not done business with them)
I had a look on ebay but couldn't find the same items you mentioned. Found a CD handlebar from the States for $109, but decided against it. The mechanic bent the bar a little back so it's not too noticeable, I might weld the bend a little to meld the metal back. Don't want the possibilty of any cracks occurring! If my luck runs out though I'll keep an eye out for CB handlebars, they seem a little more common. Thanks!!
DeleteI just bought a 1974 CD175 but the carb is gone. I'm looking for a cheap replacment but cannot seem to nail down which one I need. A push in the right direction would be helpful if anyone has any info.
ReplyDeletei have a honda cd 175a5 and from england and i was thinking of converting it to a cd175k5 because the k5 has bigger handelbars, that means getting new clutch cable brake etc the only problem i have is trying to find a throttle cable they are all out of stock the part number is 17910-302-000 thank for your help !!!!! TAKE CARE
ReplyDeleteFirst of all thanks for maintaining such a wonderful and informative site. All the Q and A were very helpful for me.
ReplyDeleteQ 1)I just got Honda CB175 and there is very little spark in the spark plugs while trying to kick start. Does it require a 12V battery to be connected to provide the required spark or will it start just without battery.
Q 2) My fuel tap leaks miserably. How can I detact it from the tank? I could not see any screws which could be removed.
Q 3) One of the carb leaks. Is it due to float valve being stuck up?
1. I would put in a charged battery first. I have been told that it can start without a battery, but I have not tried it, and running without a battery can fry the rectifier, apparently.
Delete2. Unscrew the sediment cup, pull out the screen filter and you will see a screw, assuming the CB175 is the same as my CD175.
3. Float valve leaks usually come out the vent tube, and can be temporarily stopped by turning off the fuel/reserve valve. Assuming the fuel/reserve valve is working properly. Sometimes the float valve is just stuck, and will come loose. Otherwise it may be worn out, so you may need a new one. (and a readjusting of the float level after)
I have a 1967 cd175 and the front forks are leaking out the bottom...the screws appear to be stripped and I can't get them out. Is it possible to drill them out and retap them? I am having a difficult time finding a replacement fork, so if fixing them isn't an option you know of any forks that may be compatible with this bike?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
I'm not sure if the 1967 is the same as the 1969, but anyway... if I understand you correctly, your drain screws are leaking, and you can't unscrew them because they are stripped? On my bike the drain plugs can be unscrewed by a 10mm wrench, and if the bolt was rounded off, I would use vise grip pliers to unscrew them.
DeleteOr, maybe you are referring to another screw that is only on the 1967 model? In any case, if your fork tubes are straight and not rusty, you should keep the forks you have. Most leaks are not difficult to fix, in the worst case, leaking fork seals are easier to replace than to find new forks.